Permanent Makeup History

From MicroPigmentationCentre.com

Color History

Color for cosmetic use has been around for centuries, both for use on the surface of the skin as well as sub-surface. Archaeologists have evidence that Egyptian women used green ore of copper as an eye shadow as early as 5000 B.C. They also used henna to dye their hair, carmine to redden their lips and kohl to blacken their eyebrows, lids and lashes. Thousands of years ago it was common place for Indians to use saffron to tint their faces yellow and also to dye their feet, their cheeks and the tips of their tongues. In Asia Minor, women and men, smeared their faces with litmus and marshmallow and the Babylonians shaded their lips with red in the belief that the color would prevent demons from entering their bodies.

Mummies with tattoos intact, dating back thousands of years have been discovered not only in Egypt but throughout Europe, Siberia and other places, showing that not only has the practice been around for a long time but that it has been a world wide occurrence.

Until the middle of the nineteenth century all the colorants used in foods, drugs and cosmetics were obtained from natural sources which included animals, vegetables and minerals. It wasn't until 1856 when the first synthetic organic dyestuff was discovered which unleashed a host of new and different colorants which were available in a wider variety of shades, were stronger and more permanent and considered safer for use in foods and drugs. It was the Food & Drug Act of 1906 that finally placed controls on colors used in foods, drugs and cosmetics.

The Micro-Pigmentation Centre's pigment line, which is formulated in house from FDA approved ingredients, boasts 56 colors for cosmetic and medical tattooing. Specialized colors such as the Signature Series for Camouflage and for Areola colors are widely used in hospitals and by plastic surgeons post breast reconstruction. A large number of patients that are referred to the company are looking for assistance to correct colors that have changed in the skin, a fairly common occurrence. The Correction Series of pigments such as Grey Gone, Blue Buster for Lips, Red Out and Blue Brow Corrector have been specifically designed to neutralize and correct these changes.

As an international guest speaker at Esthetic Trade Shows and Permanent Make-up Conferences, and as an invited visitor to Plastic Surgeons meetings, Pat Gauthier has put aside many of the myths associated with pigment colors; what is approved for use and what is not approved. The information she shares provides an understanding on the cause and effect of how pigments interact with different skin types, why they fade and who are not candidates for tattooing.

Color theory and mixing formulation are covered in the company's standard training courses and discusses many color related issues such as the effects of melanin, the body's most important natural pigment, which influences skin tone and the final appearance of the procedure.

The company's widely successful advanced color management training course, "Color

through the Skin" was original designed for the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP) in the United States. The society contracted the Micro-Pigmentation Centre to develop a program that would enlighten their membership on cosmetic tattoo pigments and present it to them at their annual conference. They wanted the record set straight on Iron Oxides, Organics and Inorganic pigments and dispel any other misinformation that was being promoted throughout the industry.

What resulted was an educational forum that took on the structure of an interactive workshop and Power Point presentation designed and orchestrated to impress and educate even the most knowledgeable of technicians, tutor the newer members and in general ensure that everyone left with not simply new or different theories but with new, practical, hands on working knowledge and expertise.

The program was so well received and praised that it has since been integrated into the company's one day continued education training workshops and to date have been held in Las Vegas, Nevada, Toronto, Ontario and Vancouver, British Columbia.

Equipment Evolution

Prior to electricity, the manual method to tattoo was used and in fairness, is still in use by many diehards to this day. The process lends itself more towards body art than cosmetic tattooing although some have made the transition. It uses a needle attached to a stick, generally bamboo, and it is tapped into the area either freehand or by being struck with another stick.

In the 1800's an electric machine was invented utilizing wrapped coils of copper which when energized allowed two contact points to move a bar holding a needle which oscillated the needle into the skin. For the most part the machine has not changed that drastically over the years and until recently it has been the preferred method for performing for both body and cosmetic tattooing.

The benefit of this style of machine when married with a proper power supply gave it all the muscle needed to successfully implant pigment to the correct depth with sufficient needle speed to be moderately comfortable on the client or patient. The negatives to this style of machine is the weight in that it is a relatively heavy unit to manipulate over a period. It is also very noisy having a high decibel rating which requires additional client management and third its antiquated design does not endear itself to the refined look of the Medical field or high tech Spas or Salons.

Enter the pen style machine in the early seventies which as history dictates owes its success more to its design than as an efficient tool. Originating in Taiwan it was brought to North America and sold into the aesthetic market allowing many people to enter the permanent make-up business. Considering what was available at the time its popularity is attributed to its physical design, lightness and quite operation, in effect, the total opposite of the two coil tattoo machine. Small and pristine, easily fitting into the small delicate hand of the majority of technicians it became the machine of choice to the unknowing. The downside speaks to the original comment in that it was the total opposite of the two coil unit. Whereas the two coil machine had the power to deposit the pigment to the correct depth, the pen does not. What results is a procedure that requires many touch-ups and a cosmetic tattoo that fades away.

For the conscientious technicians who attempt to make it work, they literally try to force the pigment into place, pushing down heavily on the machine which in turn causes trauma to the skin, abnormal bleeding and unneeded client pain and discomfort.

The original machine has been cloned by many manufacturers with different styles but unfortunately all with the same results. Some have promoted their product as a "semi-permanent make-up machine" which is a good marketing ploy to cover the shortcomings but not too comforting to the person without eyebrows who finally gets them only to loose them again, or the lady who underwent breast reconstruction with new areolas tattooed and then they fade away.

The world is controlled by computers for everything from a hand held BlackberryTM to the guidance systems on the Shuttle's Space Program. They are fast, accurate and they are reliable so it was only a matter of time that this industry would join the future.

The European market had digital tattoo machines for several years and the newest and latest to enter North America is the Nouveau Contour digitally controlled computerized tattoo machines. Made in Germany and sold and marketed through the Micro-Pigmentation Centre, these state of the art products bring together all of the power and qualities of the two coil tattoo machine plus the aesthetics of the pen style machine. Its appealing high tech design, light weight control and virtually noiseless operation is enhanced by the user's capability to control not only the speed of the needle but to maintain that speed and consistency under all types of skin conditions through the use of the onboard digitally controlled micro-processor.

Two models are available, the Digital 700 in medical white and the stainless steel "Intelligent" which is a more advanced design encompassing pre-set needle frequency selection buttons such as the "Medical" button for areola procedures, "Brow" button for eyebrows and so on. Both boast a patented needle design that comes in sterilized pouches, a design that prevents cross contamination and a needle that automatically retracts into the tube when the control is turned off. Pricing is commensurate with its performance, and the speed of operation cuts most procedures by 40% of the time which allows for a greater number of operations in a given day. Patient management is reduced considerably, the machine's speed of operations lessens the client's discomfort level and the professionally presented package ensures repeat business for other procedures.

Original Article Here

Tattoos & Permanent Makeup

November 29, 2000; Updated June 23, 2008

FDA considers the inks used in intradermal tattoos, including permanent makeup, to be cosmetics and considers the pigments used in the inks to be color additives requiring premarket approval under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. However, because of other public health priorities and a previous lack of evidence of safety concerns, FDA traditionally has not exercised its regulatory authority over tattoo inks or the pigments used in them. The actual practice of tattooing is regulated by local jurisdictions.


FDA is aware of more than 150 reports of adverse reactions in consumers to certain permanent make-up ink shades, and it is possible that the actual number of women affected was greater. In addition, concerns raised by the scientific community regarding the pigments used in these inks have prompted FDA to investigate the safe use of tattoo inks. FDA continues to evaluate the extent and severity of adverse events associated with tattooing and is conducting research on inks. As new information is assessed, the agency will consider whether additional actions are necessary to protect public health.


In addition to the reported adverse reactions, areas of concern include tattoo removal, infections that result from tattooing, and the increasing variety of pigments and diluents being used in tattooing. More than fifty different pigments and shades are in use, and the list continues to grow. Although a number of color additives are approved for use in cosmetics, none is approved for injection into the skin. Using an unapproved color additive in a tattoo ink makes the ink adulterated. Many pigments used in tattoo inks are not approved for skin contact at all. Some are industrial grade colors that are suitable for printers' ink or automobile paint.


Nevertheless, many individuals choose to undergo tattooing in its various forms. For some, it is an aesthetic choice or an initiation rite. Some choose permanent makeup as a time saver or because they have physical difficulty applying regular, temporary makeup. For others, tattooing is an adjunct to reconstructive surgery, particularly of the face or breast, to simulate natural pigmentation. People who have lost their eyebrows due to alopecia (a form of hair loss) may choose to have "eyebrows" tattooed on, while people with vitiligo (a lack of pigmentation in areas of the skin) may try tattooing to help camouflage the condition.
Whatever their reason, consumers should be aware of the risks involved in order to make an informed decision.

What Risks Are Involved in Tattooing?

The following are the primary complications that can result from tattooing:

• Infection. Unsterile tattooing equipment and needles can transmit infectious diseases, such as hepatitis and skin infections caused by Staphylococcus aureus ("staph") bacteria^*. Tattoos received at facilities not regulated by your state or at facilities that use unsterile equipment (or re-use ink) may prevent you from being accepted as a blood or plasma donor for twelve months.
• Removal problems. Despite advances in laser technology, removing a tattoo is a painstaking process, usually involving several treatments and considerable expense. Complete removal without scarring may be impossible.
• Allergic reactions. Although FDA has received reports of numerous adverse ractions associated with certain shades of ink in permanent makeup, marketed by a particular manufacturer, reports of allergic reactions to tattoo pigments have been rare. However, when they happen they may be particularly troublesome because the pigments can be hard to remove. Occasionally, people may develop an allergic reaction to tattoos they have had for years.
• Granulomas.These are nodules that may form around material that the body perceives as foreign, such as particles of tattoo pigment.
• Keloid formation. If you are prone to developing keloids -- scars that grow beyond normal boundaries -- you are at risk of keloid formation from a tattoo. Keloids may form any time you injure or traumatize your skin. Micropigmentation: State of the Art, a book written by Charles Zwerling, M.D., Annette Walker, R.N., and Norman Goldstein, M.D., states that keloids occur more frequently as a consequence of tattoo removal.
• MRI complications. There have been reports of people with tattoos or permanent makeup who experienced swelling or burning in the affected areas when they underwent magnetic resonance imaging (MRI). This seems to occur only rarely and apparently without lasting effects.

There also have been reports of tattoo pigments interfering with the quality of the image. This seems to occur mainly when a person with permanent eyeliner undergoes MRI of the eyes. Mascara may produce a similar effect. The difference is that mascara is easily removable.


The cause of these complications is uncertain. Some have theorized that they result from an interaction with the metallic components of some pigments.


However, the risks of avoiding an MRI when your doctor has recommended one are likely to be much greater than the risks of complications from an interaction between the MRI and tattoo or permanent makeup. Instead of avoiding an MRI, individuals who have tattoos or permanent makeup should inform the radiologist or technician of this fact in order to take appropriate precautions and avoid complications.

A Common Problem: Dissatisfaction

A common problem that may develop with tattoos is the desire to remove them. Removing tattoos and permanent makeup can be very difficult.


Although tattoos may be satisfactory at first, they sometimes fade. Also, if the tattooist injects the pigments too deeply into the skin, the pigments may migrate beyond the original sites, resulting in a blurred appearance.


Another cause of dissatisfaction is that the human body changes over time, and styles change with the season. The permanent makeup that may have looked flattering when first injected may later clash with changing skin tones and facial or body contours. People who plan to have facial cosmetic surgery are advised that the appearance of their permanent makeup may become distorted. The tattoo that seemed stylish at first may become dated and embarrassing. And changing tattoos or permanent makeup is not as easy as changing your mind.


Consult your healthcare provider about the best removal techniques for you.

What About Temporary Tattoos?

Temporary tattoos, such as those applied to the skin with a moistened wad of cotton, fade several days after application. Most contain color additives approved for cosmetic use on the skin. However, the agency has issued an import alert for certain foreign-made temporary tattoos¹.


The temporary tattoos subject to the import alert are not allowed into the United States because they don't carry the FDA-mandated ingredient labels or they contain colors not permitted by FDA for use in cosmetics applied to the skin. FDA has received reports of allergic reactions to temporary tattoos.


In a similar action, FDA has issued an import alert for henna intended for use on the skin². Henna is approved only for use as a hair dye, not for direct application to the skin. Also, henna typically produces a reddish brown tint, raising questions about what ingredients are added to produce the varieties of colors labeled as "henna," such as "black henna" and "blue henna." FDA has also received reports of allergic reactions to products applied to the skin that contain henna.

Reporting Adverse Reactions

FDA urges consumers and healthcare providers to report adverse reactions to tattoos and permanent makeup, problems with removal, or adverse reactions to temporary tattoos. Consumers and healthcare providers can register complaints using the contact information in Your Guide to Reporting Problems to FDA³.
For more information, see Tattoos and Permanent Makeup⁴.

---

^* For related information on infections from tattooing, see the following documents from the Centers for Disease Control: Viral Hepatitis B Fact Sheet⁵ and "Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus Skin Infections Among Tattoo Recipients --- Ohio, Kentucky, and Vermont, 2004-2005"⁶ (published in Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report, June 23, 2006)

Permanent makeup takes tattoos upscale

ENGLEWOOD - In the studio where Brie Ellingwood reclines to receive her eighth tattoo, what is not on the walls is more striking than what is.

Aside from the cluster of knives surrounding a sign that jokingly reads, "Free In House Tattoo Removal," the private room looks more like a physician's office than a tattoo parlor.

And if Ellingwood, who flinches at putting in eyedrops, were not afraid to feel the needle near her eyes, she would not hesitate to get eyeliner tattooed on in the adjacent room, she said.

"We're trying to break away from the traditional tattoo studio, where you walk in and see skulls and crossbones on the walls," said Gale Hartvigsen, owner of the shop, Artistry Concepts Permanent Cosmetics and Body Art.

The shop's tattoo artist, Mark Weston, specializes in permanent makeup as well as custom tattooing. So, Hartvigsen wanted it to appeal to a broad clientele.

Since the studio opened in December, Weston has performed about 100 jobs. Demand for tattoos and permanent cosmetics has been about even, Hartvigsen said.

Hartvigsen's shop is unique in the region, but according to experts in the field, the merger of permanent cosmetics and tattooing in a neutral setting is slowly increasing.

When visitors walk through the front door, the first thing they see is a bright tropical mural and a waiting room with a television and overstuffed leather couches.

There are no trinkets for sale, no jewelry on display and no books full of flash -- the tattoo trade's equivalent of clip-art.

Nationwide, more traditional tattoo artists are practicing in bright, medical-like studios because they want clients to feel safe. Permanent-cosmetics artists, meanwhile, are trying to get out of the salon environment, to avoid nuisances such as nail dust from manicures.

"It's a growing trend from both aspects," said Kate Ciampi, executive director of the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals.

She said the merger works because permanent cosmetics, such as eyeliner and lipstick, are technically tattoos, and the general public has come to accept tattooing.

But there are still few places that go out of their way to offer permanent cosmetics and tattooing the way Artistry Concepts does, said Sailor Bill Johnson, executive office director for the Alliance of Professional Tattooists board.

"Usually it's more hassle than it's worth to deal with permanent cosmetics," Johnson said. He said most tattoo artists would rather focus on their art.

If they offer cosmetics, it is often done only on request and not advertised, he added.

That is how Deborah Surace operated Cookies Tat Shack, until she began receiving a lot of requests for permanent lipstick, eyebrows and eyeliner.

She made permanent cosmetics a part of her Bradenton shop last year by contracting with Peggy Marelli, who is trained specifically in permanent makeup.

"The tattoo artists do just as good a job as her. We just wanted an esthetician to be more professional," Surace said.

The cosmetic room is private and spa-like, with a comfortable table, soothing music and candles.

Although Surace considers it a good addition, permanent makeup represents only 10 percent to 20 percent of her business.

Pretty red couches and tidy decor give her shop a high-end atmosphere, but it is primarily a tattoo shop and there is a stigma tied to that, Surace said. 

"Women who are looking for permanent makeup are scared to go into a tattoo shop, whereas if they looked at our tattoo studio, they would be so impressed," Surace said.

When planning the business model for Artistry Concepts, Hartvigsen, who has no tattoos and refers to most tattoo parlors as scary, was particularly sensitive to that stigma.

The front lobby walls of her establishment have no wizards slaying fire-breathing dragons and no topless divas in distress. Instead, there are photos of Weston's tattoos and before and after shots of his permanent cosmetic work.

Ellingwood, who has experienced the traditional parlor, said the atmosphere at Artistry Concepts works for her.

"It's very sterile," she said. "It just makes you feel comfortable."

Original article by Kate Spinner on Herald Tribune - Monday, February 11th, 2008

Individual State License Requirements*

State	Oversight	License Contact Information
Alabama	Alabama Department of Public Health	Alabama Department of Public Health
Alaska	Alaska Board of Barbers and Hairdressers	Alaska Division of Occupational Licenses
Arizona	County Departments of Health Services	None
Arkansas	Arkansas Department of Health	Arkansas Department of Health
California	California State Department of Health Services	County Health departments
Colorado	Colorado Department of Health and Environment County Health Agencies	Colorado Department of Health and Environment
Connecticut	Connecticut Department of Health	None at this time
Delaware	Delaware Department of Health	Delaware Department of Health
Florida	Florida Department of Health	Florida Department of Health
Georgia	Georgia Department of Human Resources	County Boards of Health
Hawaii	Hawaii Department of Health	Sanitation branch of the Hawaii Department of Health
Idaho	None as of this writing	None as of this writing
Illinois	Unknown	Unknown
Indiana	Unknown	Unknown
Iowa	Iowa Department of Health	Iowa Division of Health Protection and Environmental Health
Kansas	Kansas Board of Cosmetology	Kansas Board of Cosmetology
Kentucky	Local Health Departments	Local Health Departments
Louisiana	Louisiana Department of Health and Hospitals	Louisiana Department of Health and Hospitals, Food and Drug Program
Maine	Maine Department of Health and Human Services Bureau of Health	Maine Division of Environmental Health, Health Inspection Program
Maryland	Unknown	Unknown
Massachusetts	www.state.ma.us/dph/bhqm/bhqm.htm	www.state.ma.us/dph/bhqm/bhqm.htm
Michigan	Unknown	Unknown
Minnesota	Unknown	Unknown
Mississippi	Mississippi Department of Health	Mississippi Department of Health, Professional Licensure
Missouri	Missouri Department of Economic Development	Missouri Office of Professional Registration
Montana	Montana Department of Health and Services	None until January 2006
Nebraska	Nebraska Department of Health	Nebraska Department of Health
Nevada	None known; check locally	None known; check locally
New Hampshire	New Hampshire Department of Health and Human Services	New Hampshire Bureau of Health Facilities Administration
New Jersey	New Jersey Department of Health and Vital Statistics	Unknown
New Mexico	Unregulated	Unregulated
New York	Health Commissioner	No statewide license
North Carolina	North Carolina Department of Health	Local Health Departments
North Dakota	Unregulated	Unregulated
Ohio	Ohio Department of Health	Local Boards of Health
Oklahoma	Oklahoma State Department of Health	Oklahoma State Department of Health, Consumer Protection Division
Oregon	Oregon Health Licensing Department	Oregon Health Licensing Office
Pennsylvania	Unregulated	Unregulated
Rhode Island	Rhode Island Department of Health	Rhode Island Health Professional Regulation
South Carolina	South Carolina Department of Health and Environmental Control	Unknown
South Dakota	South Dakota State Department of Health	No statewide license as of this writing
Tennessee	Tennessee Department of Health, Bureau of Environmental Health Services	Local Health Departments
Texas	Texas Department of Health, Drugs and Medical Devices Division	Texas Department of Health Licensing and Enforcement Division
Utah	Check with county health departments	Check with county health departments
Vermont	Vermont Secretary of State	Vermont Secretary of State, Office of Professional Regulation
Virginia	Virginia Department of Professional and Occupational Regulation	DPOR Boards for Barbers and Cosmetology
Washington	Washington Secretary of Health	Unknown
Washington, DC	Unknown	Unknown
West Virginia	West Virginia Health and Human Resources	West Virginia Health and Human Resources
Wisconsin	Wisconsin Public Health Sanitarians	Wisconsin Public Health Sanitarians
Wyoming	Unregulated	Unknown

*From US Department of Labor (June 13th, 2005). OSHA


We will update this information as it becomes available.

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As the Tattoo & Body Piercing Industry Evolves

While recently waiting on a layover in the Minneapolis airport, I was thinking how tattooing, permanent makeup and body piercing are developing into more mature industries. Either that or I am aging. Since I am an optimist by nature, I prefer to think our industries are advancing in years, not me.

In 1989, Susan Church and I founded the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP) to formalize standards and ethics to the permanent cosmetic field. In the early 90's, the Association of Professional Piercer's (APP) was formed to do the same thing for body piercing. During the same time, tattooing came out of the alleys and developed into a respected profession with their own organization call the Association of Professional Tattooers (APT). 

Throughout the 90s, I was very vocal on how I thought permanent cosmetic technicians should view themselves and their world. I also offered a lot of “helpful” advice and gave strong opinions on piercing and tattoo issues. 

Let's face it; I will be opinionated to my dying day. However, as our industries are no longer in their infancy, I realized that some of my ideas and strong opinions might need to change. 

At this stage of business maturity, most professionals understand basic sterilization. Fifteen years ago rotary permanent cosmetic machines were unsafe because the plastic could not be properly sterilized. Now that has changed as manufacturers were forced to make their machines safe due to industry demand, legislation and exposure to lawsuits. Now the vast majority of people in the permanent cosmetic industry use pre-sterilized, singly packaged needles, tubes and tips done to medical industry specifications. 

Most body piercers and tattooists understand the need for autoclaves. Almost everyone uses steam sterilization on their needles, tubes, forceps and other moveable parts. However, many still do not spore strip test regularly. Now we are seeing some tattooists purchasing pre-sterilized equipment like most permanent cosmetic people do. Thus the public is certainly more protected from contamination than they were in earlier years. 

So where does that leave the industry organizations such as the SPCP, APP, APT and those other people who want to help these industries grow and become more professional? Recently my thinking took an abrupt turn when I heard from two people that California held a hearing about body piercing, tattoo and permanent cosmetic regulations. It suddenly dawned on me that in our near future, the battles would be fought as groups, not as individuals. 

The proposed California legislation had wording in it that said “a person getting a body piercing, tattoo or permanent cosmetic procedure who is on any type of prescription medication will need to get approval from their doctor before getting the procedure.” 
If a person is on something as simple as prescription sleeping pills, they are supposed to go to their doctor to get permission to get their navel pierced. This is crazy. Yet if we all don't stay vigilant, this sort of thing will happen.

Fortunately, rational minds prevailed and the proposal was subsequently defeated. 

Maybe the job of our industry organizations and leading professionals will be to keep an eye on what is impacting the overall industry, whether it be at the legislative level or the press. Without vigilance, we could become victims of our own success when cities, counties or states try to limit the growth of the industry by imposing onerous restrictions on individual's right to get a tattoo or piercing such as what California attempted to do. And then there is 
the press, which is always ready to jump on the story and sensationalize it when something
goes wrong.

While our industries are now “main stream”, there is still a segment of the population that wants to limit where and how a professional tattooist and piercer can practice. The medical industry feels that they should be involved with permanent cosmetics, which in the case of the proposed California legislation, was a really bad idea. 

At this stage of our industry growth, it is best that the professionals become part of their industry organization. Just to keep up with what is happening around the professions, we may need to do this. There is strength and wisdom in numbers. Only by working as a group can we effectively fight these ideas and restrictions. Let's evolve as team players. 

SUSAN PRESTON, President
Professional Program Insurance Brokerage
371 Bel Marin Keys Blvd, Suite 220
Novato, CA 94949
CA License #: 0B17238
Phone (415) 475-4300 Fax (415) 475-4303
Email: Susan@tattoo-ins.com
Website: www.tattoo-ins.com

For Original Text Click Here.